For a wine lover Tuscany is a true classic, sometimes to a point of inadvertently becoming a cliché. Mesmerising views, mediaeval villages and hoards of American tourists – everybody knows that! So, if you are looking for a detailed description of the region, suggestions for day trips or history of Tuscany, I am afraid you will need to search elsewhere. What I will offer though is a brief account of my idea of a certain way to unWined during Italian holidays. Arguably, there is no better activity (or rather slightly tipsy inactivity) to partake in , than a group visit to some local wineries while in the sunny Tuscany. In my case, it was a fun family group of twelve. What could go wrong, right? At least, the bigger the group, the better a chance to find a designated driver!
Our first stop was Poliziano winery near Montepulciano. Definitely an elegant place with a wide, cypress-lined driveway, manicured lawns and classy wine tasting venue. Similarly inside: a big reception desk, glass cabinets full of wine bottles and well dressed staff. They were very accommodating and even though we had not booked, we were offered a tasting option. It was 20 euros per person for three wines. We were to sit at a big table with white tablecloth, next to other guests who were quietly sipping their wine. Suddenly, there were some quiet murmurs in our ranks, some morose faces and finally we decided not to go through with the tasting. Maybe, because it was just too early (not even 11 am), but I had a feeling that the group did not like the vibe of the place. Although quite lovely, the winery seemed a bit stiff and pompous – the exact stigma which makes wine inaccessible for so many people. It just did not fit our bill for a fun and informal day. A shame, but we were not disheartened. I just hoped that the next place on my list would be more to our taste! Back to the car then.
We didn’t have to drive for long and after barely 10 minutes we found ourselves in I Cipressi Winery. Just off a narrow gravel round, there it was – a simple and inconspicuous winery building. Outside, an older gentleman welcomed us with a big smile and inviting gestures. His dark complexion and calloused hands gave him away. It was not hard to guess that he was a hardworking farmer. Although the winemaker, Luigi Frangiosa, didn’t speak much English, our “Vino, taste, taste” was easy enough to comprehend. “My son, 2 minutes, wait”, he said – it must be a family affair we deduced. After a short while twenty-something, English fluent Manuel appeared. He excused his sore throat blaming it on the weather (in August, in Tuscany, really?). This could’ve been the cause, but we shortly learned that the previous day Montepulciano had had its annual Bravìo delle Botti festivities. During this holiday, teams from different neighbourhoods of the town compete in an unusual race. They race each other to the top of the steep hill while rolling wine barrels. The wine is not only rolled up but also consumed in large quantities. Anyway, our aunt offered Manuel a lozenge and we could focus on why we were all here.
The tasting featured a whole range of wines produced in the winery – we went from rose, Rosso di Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano to Riserva and Supertuscan (10 euro per person). Of course, we were most eager to try Vino Nobile. The name of this flagship wine from the area is associated with nobility that used to have a particular taste for it. The quality and rigorous rules governing the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are safeguarded by its DOCG appellation status. Everybody seemed to be quite excited and relaxed in this more rustic set up. We couldn’t wait to start our Vino Nobile adventure. Manuel was leading the way, but Luigi kept watch by the door the whole time, casting quick glances full of pride at his son.
First, we were offered an experimental 2021 Rosato (a rose wine) made wholly from the most important Tuscan grape, Sangiovese. Manuel explained that it was just a second vintage of this less typical (for Tuscany) wine. I don’t have this on record, but I can’t help but think that this was Manuel’s idea. His contribution to modernise and refresh the traditional family winery. Our party was pleasantly surprised with the rose. It was fresh and enjoyable. Everybody instantly thought about drinking it by the pool in our Airbnb. We detected notes of ripe peach. Quite acidic taste made it really refreshing.
Next, we moved to the three local stars. First came 2020 Rosso di Montepulciano, 95% Sangiovese, 5% two other local varieties. It was nice and simple – aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness and approachability. Notes of red fruit, cherry and cranberry, dominated. A sip revealed a good balance with smooth and lively tannins. Certainly a great starter wine to get a feel of what the region and Sangiovese is about.
It was time for 2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – 100% Sangiovese. This wine was aged for 2 years in slavonian (region in Croatia) barrels. Quite complex on the nose, with hints of leather, tobacco and blackberries. It was quite fresh, tasting strongly of plums and ripe cherries, with a hint of chocolate. Fairly tannic and acidic, it will surely improve in a few years. Satisfying finish lingered for quite a while.
Finally, the bottle of the most anticipated 2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva appeared. As in the case of the previous wine, it was 100% Sangiovese, but this time aged for longer. More complex ageing starts with 3 years in slavonian oak barrels, followed by 6 months of aging in bottle. The nose was full of tobacco, black pepper and spices. The wine was multilayered, mouth-filling with a very long finish. Flavours of prunes, tobacco and even coffee were detectable. My sister-in-law, who just recently started her wine journey, suddenly had a huge grin on her face. For the first time she tried a wine of this calibre, but she had no difficulty appreciating how well-built it was. Especially, when compared to some easier and fresher wines that we had tried in the past. We kept complimenting the wine in Polish, but Luigi seemed to understand us perfectly well and knew which wine we liked the most. He glanced at his son with that unmistakable: “I told you so” look. Have we been witnessing a quiet generation clash? The youth championing unconventional methods and experimenting versus the wisdom and traditional ways of the previous generation?
The younger winemaker peppered the tasting with tidbits of their family history. We learned that the Frangiosa family moved here from the South in the sixties, acquired some land and started to grow grapes for sale to other wineries. Later they decided to start making their own wine and market it under their own brand. Every now and then, Manuel was asking us some questions: how had we found them, where were we staying, etc. This showed that besides being a wine producer, he had a keen, business-oriented mindset that grasped how important it is to know your customers’ behaviour and create a certain experience for them. It was important for him to make his guests happy to make sure they would leave the tasting with positive reviews, write something online and tell their friends about the amazing time they had.
To finish things off we tried a Supertuscan, 2020 IGT Toscana, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It was not too bad, pretty fresh and fruity. Regardless, I must confess I am not the biggest fan of Supertuscans. Why use international grape varieties in Italy, a country that boasts hundreds of indigenous ones?!
After we packed the cars with cases of wine we wanted to take home, everybody gathered on a terrace to soak up the view for a few more minutes: I Cipressi grape vines, rolling hills and dramatic clouds. My thoughts were coming back to the contrast between the two wineries we had visited that day. In the present experience economy, it’s a challenge to find the balance to be professional and authentic at the same time. The businesses opting for a high end and sophisticated look might suffer from being superficial and lacking substance (often being overpriced at the same time). On the other hand, if a business owner forgets that their customers are expecting a certain experience, that the winemaker is not just selling a product, but a story and a certain feeling, visitors might feel neglected and will not come back again! I Cipressi seemed to strike a really good balance.
It was only early afternoon so I finished my musings and looked ahead to the next stop of our classic Italian holidays. Andiamo!
Poliziano winery: www.carlettipoliziano.com/en.
I Cipressi winery: www.icipressiwinery.it/en.
Więcej nieWinnych Podróży wprost na Twoją skrzynkę? Zapisz się!