I have recently visited the Moravia region in the Czech Republic, tasting numerous fresh and zesty whites from the local producers. It’s a fascinating region with breathtaking mediaeval towns and rural character. Its close proximity to cultural centres such as Prague and Vienna, full of museums, theatres and, of course, chic wine bars makes it an amazing destination even for the most demanding wine connoisseurs.
But what stood out to me particularly was a wine bar in Znojmo, Enotéka znojemských vín. With its concrete modern interior, it is housed in an old 19th century brewery building overlooking the Thaya river. It creates quite a setting. Enotéka offers over 120 bottles of local Moravian wines, both from small and large producers. However, the most fascinating thing is the innovative way to taste the wines. Each visitor gets a glass and a pre-charged card and then can taste any of the dozens of wines. Armed with the list of wines and a pencil, my friends and I approached dispensers which issue two-sip quantities of 20 ml, but let you get more if you really like it. It made for a very fun experience.
I was impressed with the way this tasting method makes wine approachable for anybody regardless of their knowledge and experience! To learn about different varieties, to note the peculiarities of the vintages and familiarise themselves with the diverse producers of the region. And how far it is from formal and often a bit daunting traditional wine tastings (usually quite pricey too!). Tastings which tend to alienate wine and with their posh associations discourage so many would be wine lovers. We should really celebrate and applaud such clever and inclusive ways which democratise access to the wonderful world of wine!
The evening passed very quickly and we tried 14 different wines. The ones that really stood out for me were:
Thaya Vinarstvi, Apri Chardonnay 2018 – this was a surprisingly good Chardonnay. It had just the right balance of acidity and creaminess. Key flavour notes included vanilla and banana but also citrusy notes of lemon and grapefruit. It already had a few years in it, but could easily develop over a few more.
Arte Vini, Pinot Noir 2019 – a decent Pinot, which had typical cold climate characteristics. It was rather fresh and light. Cherry and raspberry notes dominated. There was a nuance of tobacco and oak flavours but they were not very prominent, though.
Vinne Sklepy Lechovice, Cabernet Sauvignon Sladke Ledove 2013 – this is an ice wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon. It had a decent amount of residual sugar (>200g/l), although the sweetness did not overpower other flavours. Blackcurrant and plum notes dominated, blended with delicate honey and orange accents.
ledové víno 2013, VS Lechovicé , 343 Kč/0.2l (~14 €).
Hats off to Enotéka znojemských vín!
Wine bar Enotéka znojemských vín: https://www.vinotrh.cz/enoteka/.
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