A new battleground in the age-old rivalry - English Sparkling Wine

Bubbly competition across the English Channel

Anyone who has spent some time with the British or French must have at some point witnessed how these two talk about each other. It might not be open hostility or criticism, but rather a lightly veiled mockery and condescension. This is probably a legacy of a conflict that has lasted for the past millennium. For hundreds of years the fates of these two nations have intertwined, constantly adding more fuel to the fire. Interestingly, it wasn’t until the 19^th century that the British monarchs abandoned their centuries-old tradition of calling themselves the kings of France.

However, with regard to wine production, France has always been in the lead. It seems that the British have never really minded, given that for hundreds of years they have been among the world’s top importers of French wine (currently ranking second place). But maybe this established world order in the wine universe won’t last forever. Driven by the warming climate, the wine industry in the UK is currently booming. On top of that, it is a sparkling wine that they excel at! The English wine industry is concentrated in the south of the country, where the soil characteristics and now the climate as well are practically the same as it used to be in Champagne. The French region is sadly getting hotter and hotter each year jeopardising Champagne production. Thus, the British have managed to poke another thorn in the side of their southern neighbors. Since the past few years they even have some grounds to claim that they make better wine than Champagne itself! And if not better, then at least just as good.

Chapel Down Winery in Kent

While in the UK, I decided to see for myself – that is, taste for myself – whether these claims have any grounding in reality. I chose to visit the Chapel Down winery to sample a world-class sparkling wine from the UK. This producer has some impressive achievements under their belt. For example, in 2011, Chapel Down wine was served at the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. So, I booked a tasting tour and headed to the North Downs region in Kent, a county also known as the “Garden of England”.

Chapel Down is located in a typical English countryside. Only winding roads and rolling hills as far as an eye can see. During the tour, we visited several plots of different grape varieties and the winery itself. Chapel Down uses the traditional (or Champagne) method to produce their sparkling wines. Funnily enough, I wonder what the French winemakers would think of this “loan” of their trade know-how. In any case, besides sparkling wines, the winery also offers still white and rosé

Here’s a selection of wines from Chapel Down, which I had a chance to taste:

Classic Non-Vintage Brut – zesty and refreshing. The bubbles are soft and unobtrusive. The palate is full of green apple, lemongrass and lime. Bone dry with fruity notes. A very respectable wine that can easily compete with many Champagnes.

English Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage – quite similar to the previous wine, but here the fruit profile is dominated by strawberries, raspberries and a hint of rhubarb. Quite high and prominent acidity.

English Rosé 2021 – rather watery in color and overall it has very few flavour notes. Mainly high acidity, a whiff of pink grapefruit, and maybe some wild strawberries. Quite flat and one-dimensional. For me personally, the weakest spot of the entire tasting.

Bacchus 2021 – one of the more distinguished wines. I had the opportunity to try other vintages and all displayed good quality. The color is practically transparent. The aroma is intriguingly floral, with a strong elderflower impression. Peach, melon, and also tropical notes caress the palate. Intense acidity was positively refreshing. I confess, I might be a bit biased because I am a big fan of Bacchus. Taking advantage of the occasion, I also recommend another English treat made with the same grape variety from Winbirri Vineyard in Norfolk.

Pinot Blanc 2018 – another very good white wine from Chapel Down. Fruit notes such as pear and apricot on the nose, while melon and apple flavours appear on the palate. Subtle honey aromas add extra sophistication to the final impression.

The Verdict

So, does Kent have a chance to overthrow the hitherto undisputed primacy of Champagne in the world of sparkling wines? It would be a truly monumental event. It’s definitely a worthy counterattack in the history of Anglo-French animosity. The real question is whether the English have a sufficient marketing budget to snatch some of the bubbly market. Considering that the French brand has outdistanced the competition for centuries, meticulously building its prestige that we now associate with luxury and celebration of special occasions. Frankly, the quality of the wine itself may be a secondary factor in this race. Yet, I believe that with increased availability, more and more people will try and choose English Sparkling over Champagne (not least because of the price advantage). Until then, cheers!