Southern Portugal
Algarve is the southernmost Portuguese region full of rolling hills, dramatic cliffs and magnificent beaches. On the Atlantic side in the west, there are relatively few people and the landscapes are otherworldly. Lone surfers, keenly observed by German pensioners in their camper vans on the shore, attempt to tame the defiant ocean. The southern coast is getting more and more developed, but it remains much quieter than, e.g. Spain’s Costa del Sol (perhaps with the exception of a few party spots like Lagos). Even so, as befits Portugal, grapes are grown and wine is being made even in this remote region.
This particular little unWined trip was quite spontaneous. With a free afternoon on my hands, I decided to spend it – as is often the case – at a winery. Thus, I veered off the expressway onto a meandering road to reach the terrace of the Quinta do Francês winery. The view from the said terrace was enchanting, especially the region’s characteristic dry green hills. We did not make it for a tour of the winery or a guided tasting. Not at least discouraged, we ordered a selection of wines in small tasting portions. As a bonus, I managed to learn this and that about the winery in a pleasant conversation with the co-owner.
Quinta do Francês is run by Patrick, a Frenchman with Italian heritage (from a winemaking family from Piedmont) and Fatima, a Portuguese. They have been running the 12-hectare winery since 2001. It is located in the picturesque basin of the Odelouca River. Most of the varieties grown there are the international ones mainly associated with Bordeaux and the Rhone Valley. The vineyard also features Portuguese varieties, including, of course, the country’s most prominent Touriga Nacional.
The biggest challenge for Patrick and Fatima is definitely the climate, specifically its unpredictability in recent years. Although Algarve enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate, more recently, extreme weather conditions have become more frequent. In the last few years, temperatures in summer reached 47 degrees, as mentioned by Fatima. As a result, irrigation of the grapes becomes necessary. Normally, extremely long vine roots manage on their own. However, this year, the conditions are even stranger. Until mid-June it rained a lot and sadly most of the grapes at the foot of the hills and near the river got infected with mould. The scale of the losses is still unknown, but it will undoubtedly be a significant part of the total harvest.
Tasting notes from Quinta do Francês
So, what can be said about the fruits of this ongoing battle with the elements at the southern tip of Portugal? Below, I describe six wines from Quinta do Francês that I tasted:
Sauvignon Blanc 2022 – translucent with fleeting hints of light green. The nose is distinctly fruity – notes of pineapple and peach. The flavours are quite green and grassy, with detectable grapefruit and orange peel. Low acidity.
Chardonnay 2020 – noticeably more yellow. A bit of yeast in the aroma, but menthol predominated. The flavour profile is very close to typical Chardonnay, but it must be noted that this is a rather light and refreshing wine. Light body without a mouth-filling effect.
Odelouca Tinto 2021 – a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and local Trincadeira. Interesting aroma of fresh red fruits, but also yoghurt or cheese. Flavours of blueberries and blackberries. A pleasantly long finish. Good value for money.
Odelouca River Valley Touriga Nacional 2021 – a wine of definitely darker colour, as befits this variety. Some aroma notes are similar to Odelouca, but pepper and menthol are more prominent here. Powerful tannins that radiate strength. On the palate, vanilla, tobacco, and ripe blueberry, or perhaps even chokeberry, fill the mouth. Balanced acidity.
Odelouca River Valley Syrah Terraços 2021 – clearly warmer and fruitier aroma, practically nothing of the menthol and pepper characteristic of Touriga. The thought of a freshly baked plum cake came to mind during the initial tasting. Blueberries and notes of vanilla and chocolate were also clearly present.
Ianthis Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 – the lightest colour among the reds. A rather indistinct nose – blackcurrant jam, a bit of pepper, and thyme. Very pleasant on the palate, with strong tannins. Flavour notes mainly of plums and ripe dark fruits, a bit of vanilla. Well balanced.
Ocean and wine
The Syrah and Cab Sav were really decent, but with more than double the price of the others, this time I decided to go for the Tinto and Touriga. Maybe one day I’ll return to Quinta do Francês with a slightly more accommodating budget, because I’m really curious how these wines would fare after a few years of cellaring. The secluded Algarve definitely remains a strong candidate for a repeat visit, not only because of its wine. Few things can compare with an early morning spent in the embrace of the ocean on one of its spectacular beaches. Sand, sun, salt and a surfboard – could it get any better?
Quinta do Francês winery: https://www.quintadofrances.com/.
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