While travelling across Europe, we usually stop at B&B or Accor hotels or in some random inns when we feel tired. But lately, I’ve been wondering whether it might be possible to plan our route so that each evening we stop at a winery and preferably try some local wine. After all, wine is produced in nearly every European country! During our last trip in September, which was my first journey to Croatia, I managed to organise just such a stopover at the Mulec Winery in Slovenia.
This time we were travelling in campervans, and fate (or rather, a Google algorithm) led me to a winery that offered a parking spot for campervans with all necessary amenities. Things started off well as soon as we left the motorway and drove into a rolling landscape peppered with vineyards. The views were perfectly stunning! When we arrived in the village of Jakobski Dol, we were greeted by the host’s father, who welcomed us with the question every travelling wine lover dreams about: “Would you like a glass of wine?”. There was no other answer, “Absolutely!”. What welcomed us was a properly chilled Riesling. It was precise, refreshing and pleasantly rounded. It seemed that we were going to have a lovely evening…
Our host, Dušan, offered a tasting of ten(!) wines and a platter of local delicacies, all for €20 per person! But we ended up chatting so much that we tried fourteen wines in total. What a productive tasting! The cheeses and meats, either homemade or sourced from friendly neighbours, were simply exquisite. There was even deer salami and ham from Dušan’s own stock. You can actually see the deer grazing in the pasture below the winery’s main building.
The wines encompassed a wide range: sparkling, white, red, dry and semi-sweet. They were definitely enjoyable, albeit fairly simple, in the best sense of the word. They reflected the characteristics of each grape variety well. Most wines cost €7, with only a few at €13. Here, I’ll focus on the wines that stood out the most for me.
We started off unusually with a sparkling red wine, made using the traditional method from the Zweigelt variety. It was the first sparkling red I’d ever tasted and I was pleasantly surprised. It had a deep burgundy colour with very subtle bubbles. On the palate, red fruit dominated, raspberries and wild strawberries.
The Riesling we tried upon arrival was very well-balanced, with characteristic high acidity beautifully complemented by fruity and floral notes. I detected green apples, limes and fresh wildflowers. Chilled just right, it was absolutely perfect.
Another of Dušan’s quirky ideas was a Pinot Noir showcased in three variants: white, rosé, and red. The first two of these were entirely new to me! They might not have been exceptional wines, but they intriguingly displayed the expression of the grape and its evolution at the winemaker’s hand. The white option had primarily floral notes, while the rosé introduced hints of unripe red fruits, which appeared in their full glory in the red. Such a fascinating experiment!
The Traminec, or Gewürztraminer, was as well-crafted as the Riesling. It had a distinct, intensely fragrant aroma of rose oil. Full-bodied in taste, with low acidity and a pleasant bitterness that went well with its fruity notes.
Lastly, I must mention the orange Chardonnay. This wine had been macerated on the skins for 14 days before being aged in oak barrels. The result was an intense orange colour with a scent very reminiscent of cognac. However, on the palate, it was refreshingly delicate, with flavours of fresh oranges and a faint hint of orange in chocolate. It was truly unique. Experimental, yet delicious.
The next day, after a farewell walk around the beautiful area in the morning, we continued our journey with two additional boxes of wine. I pronounce the experiment of sleeping at a winery on route a complete success. A major benefit was that, after the tasting, only a few steps separated us from our beds waiting for us in the campervans. Funnily enough, the next day we settled the bill with Dušan’s mother, who didn’t have a card terminal. So, she asked us to make a bank transfer since we didn’t have enough cash. She suggested we not bother paying only a part of the bill, so we left Mulec Winery with only a promise to pay (which, of course, we immediately did!).
Apparently, most guests stop at Mulec either on their way to or from their holidays. However, this corner of Slovenia truly deserves to be a travel destination in its own right. I hope to have the chance to go back there soon.
Mulec Winery: https://www.mulec.si/
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