The life stories of winemakers I usually visit tend to be quite similar. Either it’s a couple just starting their journey with winemaking, or it’s the next generation of a family with winemaking tradition. I’m also aware that there are large wine conglomerates producing millions of bottles annually, but I don’t visit those too often. However, during my visit to Testament Vinarija (Testament Winery) in northern Dalmatia, I encountered an ownership structure that was totally new to me in this industry.
In an area dominated by small, family-run wineries, we were greeted in Testament’s simple tasting building by a Scottish woman. As if that wasn’t surprising enough, she explained that the winery is financed by a Swedish investment fund. She herself lives in Stockholm and only comes to Croatia during the summer season. The local winemaker overseeing the Testament, Juraj Sladić, brings a Croatian touch to this international venture. I was also intrigued by the choice of the winery’s name. The most straightforward approach would have been to follow the local tradition and name the winery after the head winemaker. However, that privilege had already been claimed by Juraj’s brother, who runs his own family business. So, the Swedes opted for their own branding. Their marketing consultants came up with a story to back it up, but let’s not focus on that.
Krka National Park.Cute patio in Testament.
A small, country road led to the shop and tasting bar. Testament Winery is beautifully situated among vineyards and gently rolling hills in the background. Once there, you can taste three wines for €11, five for €22, or pay some more for a snack pairing. With our group of six, we decided it would be more economical to buy all the wines and create our own tasting session. That’s exactly what I explained to the Scottish lady. However, she handled it very professionally, offering to tell us a bit about the winery and its wines and offered for us to sample a few so we wouldn’t be buying completely unconsciously. Our compromise was to taste the most expensive wines (€25–€45) to decide if they were worth the investment. The cheaper ones we purchased confidently without trying them at all.
Let’s start with the simplest (and cheapest) wines:
Dalmatian Dog Babić 2021 – It was rather simple and perhaps a bit unbalanced. Dominated by red fruit with lots of acidity. The aroma was slightly off-putting, but improved over time (or perhaps by that time the alcohol was kicking in?). Dalmatian Dog Plavac Mali was similarly unremarkable.
Testament Babić 2021 – A very decent wine. Complex and nuanced, it quickly made me consider taking a few bottles home. Notes of oak, tobacco, plum, and blackcurrant. Still quite fresh, making it enjoyable to drink on its own.
Merga Victa Plavac – A wine from a sister winery owned by the same company, located on the famous island of Korčula. It had the most distinctive chocolate-vanilla flavour I’ve ever encountered. Interesting, but slightly overwhelming because of this single flavour note.
Testament Plavac Mali 2018 – This wine benefited from some time in the bottle and was at its peak. It probably still has a good 2–3 years before it starts to decline. Big and powerful, with lots of black fruit notes, ripe blackberries, plums, and rounded tannins.
Testament Tribidrag 2021 – Definitely not ready yet, with lots of fresh acidity and herbaceous notes. However, you could sense the potential for power, complexity, and nuance. It will be interesting to see how it evolves in 3–5 years.
We didn’t try any white wines, which was probably a big mistake. At the Peškafondo wine bar in the nearby Primošten (which I also highly recommend!) we drank an exquisite Pošip. However, I respect them for their exclusive use of native grape varieties. Babić, the dominant grape in the region, indeed produces some very pleasant wines. The only downside was that the local wines were quite expensive in restaurants. It’s strange – in Spain, you can get house wine for €8, but in Croatia you have to pay over €20. Croatian wines are also relatively little known in Poland, even though Poles take over the Croatian seaside every summer. It’s hard to say why this is the case, but hopefully, the Croatian wine market in Poland will pick up soon.
While travelling across Europe, we usually stop at B&B or Accor hotels or in some random inns when we feel tired. But lately, I’ve been wondering whether it might be possible to plan our route so that each evening we stop at a winery and preferably try some local wine. After all, wine is produced in nearly every European country! During our last trip in September, which was my first journey to Croatia, I managed to organise just such a stopover at the Mulec Winery in Slovenia.
This time we were travelling in campervans, and fate (or rather, a Google algorithm) led me to a winery that offered a parking spot for campervans with all necessary amenities. Things started off well as soon as we left the motorway and drove into a rolling landscape peppered with vineyards. The views were perfectly stunning! When we arrived in the village of Jakobski Dol, we were greeted by the host’s father, who welcomed us with the question every travelling wine lover dreams about: “Would you like a glass of wine?”. There was no other answer, “Absolutely!”. What welcomed us was a properly chilled Riesling. It was precise, refreshing and pleasantly rounded. It seemed that we were going to have a lovely evening…
Our host, Dušan, offered a tasting of ten(!) wines and a platter of local delicacies, all for €20 per person! But we ended up chatting so much that we tried fourteen wines in total. What a productive tasting! The cheeses and meats, either homemade or sourced from friendly neighbours, were simply exquisite. There was even deer salami and ham from Dušan’s own stock. You can actually see the deer grazing in the pasture below the winery’s main building.
Food platter that came with wine at Mulec.Wine growing countryside in Slovenia.
The wines encompassed a wide range: sparkling, white, red, dry and semi-sweet. They were definitely enjoyable, albeit fairly simple, in the best sense of the word. They reflected the characteristics of each grape variety well. Most wines cost €7, with only a few at €13. Here, I’ll focus on the wines that stood out the most for me.
We started off unusually with a sparkling red wine, made using the traditional method from the Zweigelt variety. It was the first sparkling red I’d ever tasted and I was pleasantly surprised. It had a deep burgundy colour with very subtle bubbles. On the palate, red fruit dominated, raspberries and wild strawberries.
The Riesling we tried upon arrival was very well-balanced, with characteristic high acidity beautifully complemented by fruity and floral notes. I detected green apples, limes and fresh wildflowers. Chilled just right, it was absolutely perfect.
Another of Dušan’s quirky ideas was a Pinot Noir showcased in three variants: white, rosé, and red. The first two of these were entirely new to me! They might not have been exceptional wines, but they intriguingly displayed the expression of the grape and its evolution at the winemaker’s hand. The white option had primarily floral notes, while the rosé introduced hints of unripe red fruits, which appeared in their full glory in the red. Such a fascinating experiment!
The Traminec, or Gewürztraminer, was as well-crafted as the Riesling. It had a distinct, intensely fragrant aroma of rose oil. Full-bodied in taste, with low acidity and a pleasant bitterness that went well with its fruity notes.
Lastly, I must mention the orange Chardonnay. This wine had been macerated on the skins for 14 days before being aged in oak barrels. The result was an intense orange colour with a scent very reminiscent of cognac. However, on the palate, it was refreshingly delicate, with flavours of fresh oranges and a faint hint of orange in chocolate. It was truly unique. Experimental, yet delicious.
The next day, after a farewell walk around the beautiful area in the morning, we continued our journey with two additional boxes of wine. I pronounce the experiment of sleeping at a winery on route a complete success. A major benefit was that, after the tasting, only a few steps separated us from our beds waiting for us in the campervans. Funnily enough, the next day we settled the bill with Dušan’s mother, who didn’t have a card terminal. So, she asked us to make a bank transfer since we didn’t have enough cash. She suggested we not bother paying only a part of the bill, so we left Mulec Winery with only a promise to pay (which, of course, we immediately did!).
Apparently, most guests stop at Mulec either on their way to or from their holidays. However, this corner of Slovenia truly deserves to be a travel destination in its own right. I hope to have the chance to go back there soon.
As I mentioned before, I Cipressi was just an introduction to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. After a very pleasant morning, our group headed to nearby Montepulciano, the very centre of this wine appellation. Montepulciano is a typical Tuscan town – very charming, with a long history and its own list of local legends. It goes without saying that it boasts a wide array of local culinary delights and drinks. In the typical fashion of this part of Italy, Montepulciano is perched on a hill. What’s not immediately apparent, however, is what happens within the town’s rock. The interior of the hill resembles Swiss cheese. It’s full of caves and cellars carved into the rock by local winemakers over the centuries. These tunnels create ideal conditions for storing wine. These Italians certainly had a clever idea to hide and preserve their wine bounty in this manner!
We wandered around the town a bit, had lunch, and visited a few wineries to check out their cellars and compare different expressions of the same DOCG. I recommend the Talosa’s cellars, which can be visited free of charge. There were some quite old Talosa wine bottles on display, I really liked that (picture below). We also stopped by Contucci – a nice and affordable wine bar.
Montepulciano.Town hall in Montepulciano.Old bottles in Talosa (1973 r.!).
The main event – De’Ricci winery
To be fair, until now, we were just killing time waiting for the main event of the afternoon. That special treat was a tour of the legendary De’Ricci winery, an outstanding place famed for their Wine Cathedral. The long history of the De’Ricci winery dates back to the 14th century, although the first cave on this site was supposedly dug by the Etruscans themselves! About two hundred years after its founding, new storage space was added and the renowned De’Ricci Wine Cathedral was built. The architecture of this exceptional cellar makes its name self explanatory. The space gives an unmistakable impression of a three nave, underground church. But instead of rows of pews and worshippers, you’ll find stacks of giant wine barrels.
There’s a local legend associated with this cave/cellar. It’s a story about the mythical ancestor of the De’Ricci family. Apparently, in the 12th century he lived in that cave. It was said that he had an incredible gift for predicting the weather. Since he was never wrong, more and more townspeople sought him out to learn about upcoming storms or fair weather. Word of him eventually reached distant Vatican City. The Church accused him of black magic which was punishable by death. The hermit decided that his secret wasn’t worth his life and revealed the source of his prophetic abilities. He claimed that every morning he was looking at a hedgehog living nearby. Whether the animal looked up toward the sun or not, it was a sign for him to judge the weather for that day. This man was nicknamed Riccio (Italian for hedgehog). De’Ricci family name is linked to that ancient nickname. Hedgehogs are not my speciality, though, so let’s get back to wine!
Our visit in De’Ricci, of course, included a guided tour of the cellars. We learned about the distant and not-so-distant history of the family. I would highly recommend the tour. Even those in our group who weren’t that bothered about wine really enjoyed it. The highlight of the tour was a guided tasting of six wines, accompanied by Italian cheeses, meats, bread and olives.
Impressive De’Ricci Wine Cathedral.
The De’Ricci wines
We started with Aerae Brut 2021 (13 €). It’s an interesting one. Aerae is a sparkling wine made entirely from Sangiovese, Tuscany’s main red grape. No surprise, the family hedgehog proudly occupies the centre of the label! As for the wine itself, it was okay. The main notes were citrus coupled with a bit of green apple. It was an interesting novelty, but certainly not a sparkling wine that will take the world by storm.
Next, we went through the classics of the appellation: Rosso di Montepulciano 2021, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, and a more refined version of the latter, called Soraldo (also 2019). The wines were good, improving within the hierarchy as expected. They exhibited balance and body that showcased their quality well. From the bottle of Rosso, I could taste red fruit like red currants, raspberries, and cherries. With each subsequent bottle, oak and vanilla notes emerged, enriched by wet earth and smoke. I can wholeheartedly recommend these, especially to fans of this style of wine.
Rosso di Montepulciano2021, De’Ricci, 14 €.Vino Nobile di Montepulciano2019, De’Ricci, 24 €.Soraldo2019, De’Ricci, 44 €.
Na koniec spróbowaliśmy dwa Super Tuscany. Te wina zaklasyfikowano jako IGT Toscana i wykonano z międzynarodowych szczepów, głównie kojarzonych z Bordeaux. Il Vignone 2019 to blend Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon i Petit Verdot. Il Severo 2018 to 100% Merlot. Dość nietypowo, Il Severo robione jest z różnych szczepów w różnych rocznikach w zależności od jakości plonów, tak żeby uzyskać jak najlepsze wino. Szczepy wybierane są spośród Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot i Syrah. Super Tuscany były całkiem niezłe, z dominującymi nutami śliwek i jeżyn. Dzięki dębowym beczkom pojawiły się też dodatkowe nuty tytoniu czy gorzkiej czekolady. Mimo to nadal nie zdołały mnie przekonać, że warto jest inwestować w nie-wloskie szczepy we Włoszech.
Finally, we tried two Super Tuscans. These wines are classified as IGT Toscana and are made from international varieties mainly associated with Bordeaux. Il Vignone 2019 is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. Il Severo 2018 is 100% Merlot. Quite unusually, Il Severo is made from different varieties in different vintages, depending on the quality of the harvest, with the aim to produce the best possible wine. The varieties are chosen from among Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Syrah. The Super Tuscans were quite good, with dominant notes of plums and blackberries. Thanks to ageing in oak barrels, additional notes of tobacco and dark chocolate emerged. I enjoyed Il Vignone and Il Severo, but they didn’t manage to convince me that it’s worth investing in non-Italian varieties in Italy.
I’m afraid I am not finished with Tuscany just yet
After the tasting in De’Ricci we were finally done for the day. It was fun to explore Montepulciano and the area with the family. Particularly enjoyable was getting acquainted with the famous Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation. From modern, luxurious wineries to small family farms, in Montepulciano you can experience the full range of wine-themed adventures. The incredible underground wine temple of the De’Ricci family was an unquestionable showstopper of today’s journey to unWined. Naturally, as befits even a short Tuscan vacation, there was much, much more wine. Stay tuned – we’ll likely need a part 3!
Algarve is the southernmost Portuguese region full of rolling hills, dramatic cliffs and magnificent beaches. On the Atlantic side in the west, there are relatively few people and the landscapes are otherworldly. Lone surfers, keenly observed by German pensioners in their camper vans on the shore, attempt to tame the defiant ocean. The southern coast is getting more and more developed, but it remains much quieter than, e.g. Spain’s Costa del Sol (perhaps with the exception of a few party spots like Lagos). Even so, as befits Portugal, grapes are grown and wine is being made even in this remote region.
This particular little unWined trip was quite spontaneous. With a free afternoon on my hands, I decided to spend it – as is often the case – at a winery. Thus, I veered off the expressway onto a meandering road to reach the terrace of the Quinta do Francês winery. The view from the said terrace was enchanting, especially the region’s characteristic dry green hills. We did not make it for a tour of the winery or a guided tasting. Not at least discouraged, we ordered a selection of wines in small tasting portions. As a bonus, I managed to learn this and that about the winery in a pleasant conversation with the co-owner.
Quinta do Francês is run by Patrick, a Frenchman with Italian heritage (from a winemaking family from Piedmont) and Fatima, a Portuguese. They have been running the 12-hectare winery since 2001. It is located in the picturesque basin of the Odelouca River. Most of the varieties grown there are the international ones mainly associated with Bordeaux and the Rhone Valley. The vineyard also features Portuguese varieties, including, of course, the country’s most prominent Touriga Nacional.
The biggest challenge for Patrick and Fatima is definitely the climate, specifically its unpredictability in recent years. Although Algarve enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate, more recently, extreme weather conditions have become more frequent. In the last few years, temperatures in summer reached 47 degrees, as mentioned by Fatima. As a result, irrigation of the grapes becomes necessary. Normally, extremely long vine roots manage on their own. However, this year, the conditions are even stranger. Until mid-June it rained a lot and sadly most of the grapes at the foot of the hills and near the river got infected with mould. The scale of the losses is still unknown, but it will undoubtedly be a significant part of the total harvest.
Tasting notes from Quinta do Francês
So, what can be said about the fruits of this ongoing battle with the elements at the southern tip of Portugal? Below, I describe six wines from Quinta do Francês that I tasted:
Sauvignon Blanc 2022 – translucent with fleeting hints of light green. The nose is distinctly fruity – notes of pineapple and peach. The flavours are quite green and grassy, with detectable grapefruit and orange peel. Low acidity.
Chardonnay 2020 – noticeably more yellow. A bit of yeast in the aroma, but menthol predominated. The flavour profile is very close to typical Chardonnay, but it must be noted that this is a rather light and refreshing wine. Light body without a mouth-filling effect.
Odelouca Tinto 2021 – a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and local Trincadeira. Interesting aroma of fresh red fruits, but also yoghurt or cheese. Flavours of blueberries and blackberries. A pleasantly long finish. Good value for money.
Odelouca River Valley Touriga Nacional 2021 – a wine of definitely darker colour, as befits this variety. Some aroma notes are similar to Odelouca, but pepper and menthol are more prominent here. Powerful tannins that radiate strength. On the palate, vanilla, tobacco, and ripe blueberry, or perhaps even chokeberry, fill the mouth. Balanced acidity.
Odelouca River Valley Touriga Nacional 2021, Quinta do Francês, 16 €.
Odelouca River Valley Syrah Terraços 2021 – clearly warmer and fruitier aroma, practically nothing of the menthol and pepper characteristic of Touriga. The thought of a freshly baked plum cake came to mind during the initial tasting. Blueberries and notes of vanilla and chocolate were also clearly present.
Ianthis Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 – the lightest colour among the reds. A rather indistinct nose – blackcurrant jam, a bit of pepper, and thyme. Very pleasant on the palate, with strong tannins. Flavour notes mainly of plums and ripe dark fruits, a bit of vanilla. Well balanced.
The Syrah and Cab Sav were really decent, but with more than double the price of the others, this time I decided to go for the Tinto and Touriga. Maybe one day I’ll return to Quinta do Francês with a slightly more accommodating budget, because I’m really curious how these wines would fare after a few years of cellaring. The secluded Algarve definitely remains a strong candidate for a repeat visit, not only because of its wine. Few things can compare with an early morning spent in the embrace of the ocean on one of its spectacular beaches. Sand, sun, salt and a surfboard – could it get any better?
I’ve mentioned before how surprised I was to learn that Tokaj is not exclusively a Hungarian region. A part of it also spills into Slovakia. From that moment on, I had this place on my mind. Recently, while en route to Hungary, I had a chance to stop there overnight. This short stay in Slovakia was enough to visit two interesting places. We started with lunch and a glass of wine at Chateau Grand Bari, who had previously impressed me with a first-rate 7-year-old Lipovina. Next, we planned to spend a night and enjoy a guided tasting at the Tokaj Macik winery.
Chateau Grand Bariis a very elegant and modern place. Clearly somebody has invested serious money in this business. However, perhaps due to its niche character, the prices are still very reasonable (despite considerable wine production, Slovakia might not be an obvious choice for enotourists). We opted for 3 basic wines – Vulkano, Gentleman, and Lipovina to go with our lunch. All of them were white wines – the first two made from Furmint, a grape variety used to produce Tokaji. All were quite pleasant, very fruity and zesty wines. Definitely worth recommending for a leisurely summer day in a garden.
A map of Tokaj.Grand entrance to Grand Bari.
Tokaj Macik winery
Today though, I’d like to focus more on the Tokaj Macik winery – a family venture specialising in producing Tokaji. It’s a very charming place, with a completely different vibe to Grand Bari. We were very happy with the food (the obligatory duck with dumplings and red cabbage for dinner), wine and accommodation they offered. But an undisputed highlight of our stay was the winery tour, more specifically the unexpected venue of the tasting. It turned out that under the property, which houses the guest rooms and restaurant, hides an entire network of old cellars with ideal conditions for storing and ageing Tokaji.
As our hostess winemaker explained, she and her husband bought the land with the three neighbouring properties precisely because of these cellars. They decided to merge all three cellars to create one large underground space that can accommodate tens of thousands of bottles of wine (and several tables to host guests). It’s a truly unique place to enjoy local wine!
inconspicuous entrance to the cellar at Tokaj Macik.Where are we going?
Briefly about Tokaji
As we sipped the wines from the Macik winery, we also learned a bit about the history of the region. Apparently, Tokaj was always a very homogenous region with a set of distinct local traditions. At some point, a national border artificially divided it in two. Despite this, Tokaj winemakers from both sides of the border still cooperate, share knowledge, and regularly visit each other. Regional patriotism seems to win over any nationalistic sentiment here. The Slovak-Hungarian region is also united by geology. The so-called tuff, a type of volcanic rock, is an essential component of the soils where grapes for the Tokaji wines are grown.
The traditional method of producing Tokaji has not suffered during the political upheavals of the last centuries. Samorodni is made from a mix of regular grapes and those infected with the noble rot. Depending on the ratio of healthy and rotten grapes, it’s possible to make sweet or dry wine (in a style similar to dry sherry). In the case of Tokaji Aszú, the grapes with the noble rot are picked by hand. They are collected in baskets known as puttonyos (25 kg each) and added to the base dry wine. The more baskets used for each 136 litres of wine, the sweeter and more expensive the resulting Tokaji. The number of baskets used for a particular wine is always indicated on the label.
The magic of Tokaji is born in the next stage of production. After bottling, the wine ends up in the cellar with 85% humidity. This humidity and darkness promote the spread of different varieties of mould which is actually necessary for the ageing and evolution of Tokaji. Unlike the usual vertical way, Tokaji bottles are stored upright. This facilitates permeation of oxygen through the cork and contact with the mould. Cellar’s humidity is enough to keep the cork wet (usually this is achieved through the horizontal position of the bottle). Not surprisingly, all bottles are equipped with plastic tags for ease of identification, as printed labels quickly deteriorate in such conditions.
Now, let’s move on to the wines from Tokaj Macik. There were quite a few of them:
BIO MUŠKÁT ŽLTÝ 2023 – In the candlelight darkness of the cellar, it was difficult to tell the colour of the wine. The bouquet, however, was very typical for muscat – grape and elderflower, it was very aromatic. The wine was fresh and dry with the hints of menthol and anise. Dominant citrusy notes of grapefruit and lime were easy to discern. Pleasant, but rather simple wine. 6.90 €.
MONO Furmint 2022 – Compared to the previous wine, the aroma of MONO Furmint is much more understated, there are perhaps some petroleum notes. High acidity prevails. Lemon and green apple notes came to the fore. An extraordinary feature of this wine is the bottle itself. It was made in Bordeaux, as the local suppliers could not meet the detailed requirements. The label is spray-painted and the cork is made of glass. It is the only Slovak wine presented at the exhibition in Bordeaux.
ROŇAVA 2016 – A blend of 85% Furmint and 15% Lipovina, a very mature wine. Surprisingly incongruous in terms of palate and aroma, suggesting a high sugar and alcohol content on one hand, while being very dry and of normal %. On the nose, a bit like sherry, with ripe apples and plums. It’s powerful on the palate with ripe apple flavours, but also maintaining good acidity. The wine was named after a nearby artificially created river, which constitutes the border with Hungary.
TOKAJSKÉ SAMORODNÉ SUCHÉ 2005 – the wine is almost 20 years old, but it’s in a great shape. To my mind it is the next, more developed stage of Roňava. Both have some flavours in common, but this one is more refined and elegant, with noticeable vanilla and biscuit notes. Bottled in the typical half-litre Tokaji bottle. Recommended to be served as a dry aperitif.
MONO Lipovina 2019 – a wine with 30 g of residual sugar, so it can be considered semi-sweet. Acacia, linden, and honey are the leading notes. Usually, I am not a fan of this type of wine, but here the sweetness was not overpowering and repulsively candy-like (ugh…). Surprisingly, I even detected a hint of black pepper. This straightforward wine should be an easy crowd pleaser.
TOKAJSKÉ SAMORODNÉ SLADKÉ 2011 – The sweet version of the samorodný Tokaji, not difficult to identify thanks to the distinct bouquet. I tasted oranges, ripe apples and a hint of anise or mint. It had a good balance between acidity and sweetness. It was paired with Emmental cheese during the tasting, which turned out to be a splendid match. I think it would also go very well with onion soup. On top of that it promises a great ageing potential.
BOTRIS LATE HARVEST 2019 – Furmint and Lipovina in a 50/50 blend. As the name suggests, the wine is made from grapes infected with the noble rot. It has 81 g of residual sugar. Pretty unusual on the nose – for me, it smelled of gasoline and pickled cucumbers. The bouquet sharply contrasted with its sweet taste of honey. Botris is probably not for me. Fun fact, this wine attracted a particular attention of a supplier for the Vatican. He has been coming to Tokaj Macik for years to secure several crates of Late Harvest, presumably for the enjoyment of the clergy.
TOKAJSKÝ VÝBER 3 PUTŇOVÝ 2009– 65 g of residual sugar. A wine with strong notes of ripe fruit, luckily the high sugar content is not producing an oversweet effect. Intriguing notes appeared such as shea butter or perhaps fruit in chocolate, but also dried fruit like raisins or figs. It was served with dark chocolate, which again proved to be a well chosen pairing. The wine is currently fifteen years old, but it still has a promising future ahead.
Tokaj Macik winery was a total surprise for me. First, I was struck that under an ordinary-looking farmhouse hides a true treasure cave of wine. Second, I came to really admire how well they have cultivated a centuries-old tradition of the region, while still staying relevant in the current market. And most startling of all was how Tokaj winemakers use these spooky underground conditions, let’s be honest, taken straight out of a horror movie, to produce first-class sweet wine. As it turns out, mould is not only important in cheese-making – Tokaji needs it too. The old saying about the book and the cover somehow comes to mind… Who cares about Sauternes or Vin Santo when we have good, old Slovak Tokaji just across the border!
Anyone who has spent some time with the British or French must have at some point witnessed how these two talk about each other. It might not be open hostility or criticism, but rather a lightly veiled mockery and condescension. This is probably a legacy of a conflict that has lasted for the past millennium. For hundreds of years the fates of these two nations have intertwined, constantly adding more fuel to the fire. Interestingly, it wasn’t until the 19th century that the British monarchs abandoned their centuries-old tradition of calling themselves the kings of France.
However, with regard to wine production, France has always been in the lead. It seems that the British have never really minded, given that for hundreds of years they have been among the world’s top importers of French wine (currently ranking second place). But maybe this established world order in the wine universe won’t last forever. Driven by the warming climate, the wine industry in the UK is currently booming. On top of that, it is a sparkling wine that they excel at! The English wine industry is concentrated in the south of the country, where the soil characteristics and now the climate as well are practically the same as it used to be in Champagne. The French region is sadly getting hotter and hotter each year jeopardising Champagne production. Thus, the British have managed to poke another thorn in the side of their southern neighbors. Since the past few years they even have some grounds to claim that they make better wine than Champagne itself! And if not better, then at least just as good.
Chapel Down Winery in Kent
While in the UK, I decided to see for myself – that is, taste for myself – whether these claims have any grounding in reality. I chose to visit the Chapel Down winery to sample a world-class sparkling wine from the UK. This producer has some impressive achievements under their belt. For example, in 2011, Chapel Down wine was served at the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. So, I booked a tasting tour and headed to the North Downs region in Kent, a county also known as the “Garden of England”.
Chapel Down is located in a typical English countryside. Only winding roads and rolling hills as far as an eye can see. During the tour, we visited several plots of different grape varieties and the winery itself. Chapel Down uses the traditional (or Champagne) method to produce their sparkling wines. Funnily enough, I wonder what the French winemakers would think of this “loan” of their trade know-how. In any case, besides sparkling wines, the winery also offers still white and rosé
Wine tasting in Chapel Down.Chapel Down vineyard.
Here’s a selection of wines from Chapel Down, which I had a chance to taste:
Classic Non-Vintage Brut – zesty and refreshing. The bubbles are soft and unobtrusive. The palate is full of green apple, lemongrass and lime. Bone dry with fruity notes. A very respectable wine that can easily compete with many Champagnes.
Classic Non Vintage Brut, Chapel Down, 29 £ (~145 zł.).
English Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage – quite similar to the previous wine, but here the fruit profile is dominated by strawberries, raspberries and a hint of rhubarb. Quite high and prominent acidity.
English Sparkling Rosé Non Vintage, Chapel Down, 32 £ (~160 zł.).
English Rosé 2021 – rather watery in color and overall it has very few flavour notes. Mainly high acidity, a whiff of pink grapefruit, and maybe some wild strawberries. Quite flat and one-dimensional. For me personally, the weakest spot of the entire tasting.
Bacchus 2021 – one of the more distinguished wines. I had the opportunity to try other vintages and all displayed good quality. The color is practically transparent. The aroma is intriguingly floral, with a strong elderflower impression. Peach, melon, and also tropical notes caress the palate. Intense acidity was positively refreshing. I confess, I might be a bit biased because I am a big fan of Bacchus. Taking advantage of the occasion, I also recommend another English treat made with the same grape variety from Winbirri Vineyard in Norfolk.
Pinot Blanc 2018 – another very good white wine from Chapel Down. Fruit notes such as pear and apricot on the nose, while melon and apple flavours appear on the palate. Subtle honey aromas add extra sophistication to the final impression.
TheVerdict
So, does Kent have a chance to overthrow the hitherto undisputed primacy of Champagne in the world of sparkling wines? It would be a truly monumental event. It’s definitely a worthy counterattack in the history of Anglo-French animosity. The real question is whether the English have a sufficient marketing budget to snatch some of the bubbly market. Considering that the French brand has outdistanced the competition for centuries, meticulously building its prestige that we now associate with luxury and celebration of special occasions. Frankly, the quality of the wine itself may be a secondary factor in this race. Yet, I believe that with increased availability, more and more people will try and choose English Sparkling over Champagne (not least because of the price advantage). Until then, cheers!
Visit nearby Seven Sisters cliffs.Walking towards Seven Sisters.
To feel a rebirth of the thermal baths, one must first embark on the path of self-destruction, wrote a famous culinary journalist Robert Makłowicz. A beautiful place to test this thesis is the wine town of Eger in Hungary. Located in the northern part of the country, it is famous for its numerous medicinal thermal baths and even more numerous wineries. The area is full of both. This time I invite you to unWined with me in the style of 19th century aristocracy. We will travel to an imperial spa town known for its healing waters, but we will definitely spend most of the time enjoying the local wines.
Speaking of wine, this is definitely an interesting region, especially thanks to the local appellation of Egri Bikavér, or Bull’s Blood. This name surely evokes some dreadful recollections for many people who had the opportunity to taste a wine with this label during the communist era (unfortunately, I missed out on this “treat”). One of the winemakers in Eger told me that in his youth, he used to drink Bull’s Blood only heavily diluted with cola. My father, upon trying it for the first time, decades ago, exclaimed that he would never drink wine in his life. He didn’t quite stick to his resolution, because since then he became a real wine enthusiast. Nonetheless, the traumatic memories remain…
So, is the current charm of Eger somehow associated with this abhorrent pseudo-wine? Not at all! Luckily, this unfortunate legacy is now a thing of the past. With the closure of the local conglomerate Egervin (they mass-produced truly nasty stuff), and as a result of political changes, smaller winemakers have returned to the region. They are keen to take full advantage of Eger soils, climate and resulting unique terroirs and once again create beautifully ageing, expressive, and complex wines. The winemaking tradition there dates back to the Middle Ages and was only temporarily disrupted in the twentieth century.
Tóth Ferenc winery illustrates the local history well. Mr. Tóth Ferenc was born into a winemaking family, who lost everything in the 1950s. In the 1980s, they began to rebuild slowly, and now Tóth Ferenc is a 25-hectare vineyard. This winery was a must-visit in my itinerary (I bought my first bottle from Tóth Ferenc at the Carpathian Wine Bar). Another place I would like to mention is St. Andrea. According to world critics, this winery produces the best wine in Eger – St. Andrea Agapé.
St. Andrea Agapé wine.Eger city centre (castle in the background).
Before we delve into specific wines from both wineries, first a few words about the region’s trademark – Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood). This red wine must be composed of at least three and a maximum of thirteen grape varieties. The base is always Kékfrankos (also known as Blaufränkisch). Other commonly added varieties include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Kadarka. There are three tiers: Classicus, Superior, and Grand Superior. Depending on the chosen blend, different versions of Bull’s Blood vary in the quantity of grapes used for production and the ageing method. These ultimately determine the final designation of the wine.
And now, the Egri Bikavérs I’ve tried:
Áldás, Egri Bikavér Superior, St. Andrea, 2022 – this is the basic Egri Bikavér from St. Andrea, created from a blend of various terroirs, all of which include volcanic soils. This wine is composed of seven different grape varieties. It has an intensely fruity aroma. The taste is dominated by redcurrant and red cherries with tolerable acidity. Fairly soft tannins make it easy to drink despite its young age.
Merengő, Egri Bikavér Superior, St. Andrea, 2021 – despite being in the same class as Áldás (Superior), this wine is definitely of higher quality. It is full-bodied and more structured. Flavours of redcurrant dominate but tobacco, dark chocolate, and black pepper also come through clearly. It’s a more complex and elegant wine. The tannins are tolerable, although still quite green. The wine will definitely become more enjoyable as it ages.
Igazán, Egri Bikavér Grand Superior, St. Andrea, 2016 – here we have a Grand Superior wine. It comes from a selected terroir, located on a hill with limestone soils. In some regards, the wine is similar to its younger equivalents – it possesses freshness and significant acidity. Equally, you can just feel its maturity and refinement. Ripe black fruit flavours dominate, with more pronounced plums and blackcurrant.
Várvédő, Egri Bikavér Superior, Tóth Ferenc, 2018 – Tóth Ferenc’s wines were characterised by piercing acidity. This six-year-old wine, despite spending two years in the oak barrels, and having 15% alcohol content, preserved an interesting freshness. The wine is well-structured with a full body. On the nose there are very vivid notes of the forest floor and wet wood. In addition to blueberries and blackcurrant, there are also distinct notes of cocoa.
Síkhegy, Egri Bikavér Grand Superior, Gál Tibor, 2018 – Grand Superior class at a very reasonable price. The wine, as befits this category, is complex, elegant, and well structured. Selected from the Síkhegy terroir dominated by clay soils, it is a blend of five grape varieties. The palate flavours is a swirl of plums, blueberries, but also freshly ground coffee and bonfire smoke.
Egri Hegybíró Bora, Egri Bikavér, Dula Pincészet, 2012 – the oldest Egri Bikavér I had a chance to try during this trip. The price (less than 12 € in store, and around 14 € in a local restaurant) was as surprising as what I encountered after opening the bottle. Although due to its twelve years, the wine has become palatably lighter, it still maintained complexity and nuances of different flavours. Dark chocolate and wet earth notes dominated, but I still detected distinct flavours of plums and brambles. It paired magnificently with rabbit and venison dishes! I highly recommend it. By the way, the food and drinks prices in Eger are very friendly to a Polish pocket, so even better to a Western one!
What about those thermal baths and the treatment then? I must say that after two days of intensive tasting, a trip to the hot springs by a naturally occurring salt hill (a mini version of the Turkish Pamukkale) did the trick. After three hours spent soaking in sulphur-smelling waters, while basking under the strong April sun, I emerged like a newborn, ready to attack a few more really good bottles of Bull’s Blood. I hope Mr. Makłowicz would be proud of me.
I have recently visited the Moravia region in the Czech Republic, tasting numerous fresh and zesty whites from the local producers. It’s a fascinating region with breathtaking mediaeval towns and rural character. Its close proximity to cultural centres such as Prague and Vienna, full of museums, theatres and, of course, chic wine bars makes it an amazing destination even for the most demanding wine connoisseurs.
But what stood out to me particularly was a wine bar in Znojmo, Enotéka znojemských vín. With its concrete modern interior, it is housed in an old 19th century brewery building overlooking the Thaya river. It creates quite a setting. Enotéka offers over 120 bottles of local Moravian wines, both from small and large producers. However, the most fascinating thing is the innovative way to taste the wines. Each visitor gets a glass and a pre-charged card and then can taste any of the dozens of wines. Armed with the list of wines and a pencil, my friends and I approached dispensers which issue two-sip quantities of 20 ml, but let you get more if you really like it. It made for a very fun experience.
I was impressed with the way this tasting method makes wine approachable for anybody regardless of their knowledge and experience! To learn about different varieties, to note the peculiarities of the vintages and familiarise themselves with the diverse producers of the region. And how far it is from formal and often a bit daunting traditional wine tastings (usually quite pricey too!). Tastings which tend to alienate wine and with their posh associations discourage so many would be wine lovers. We should really celebrate and applaud such clever and inclusive ways which democratise access to the wonderful world of wine!
The evening passed very quickly and we tried 14 different wines. The ones that really stood out for me were:
Thaya Vinarstvi, Apri Chardonnay 2018 – this was a surprisingly good Chardonnay. It had just the right balance of acidity and creaminess. Key flavour notes included vanilla and banana but also citrusy notes of lemon and grapefruit. It already had a few years in it, but could easily develop over a few more.
Arte Vini, Pinot Noir 2019 – a decent Pinot, which had typical cold climate characteristics. It was rather fresh and light. Cherry and raspberry notes dominated. There was a nuance of tobacco and oak flavours but they were not very prominent, though.
Vinne Sklepy Lechovice, Cabernet Sauvignon Sladke Ledove 2013 – this is an ice wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon. It had a decent amount of residual sugar (>200g/l), although the sweetness did not overpower other flavours. Blackcurrant and plum notes dominated, blended with delicate honey and orange accents.
The wine tradition is ancient, but alive and constantly forming. There are places like Italy or France, where wine culture is deeply rooted in the local and national identity. Wine is as commonplace as bread. And there are places like Poland. A few centuries ago, in Polish literature we could find mentions of ‘’Burgunder’’ or ‘’Węgrzyn’’ (lit. Hungarian). However, wine-drinking culture had somewhat vanished in the last century and only recently it has been coming back to life. The lack of quality product on the supermarket shelf, which was the main hurdle for a Polish wine lover, is no longer the case. Wine growing and winemaking is another matter completely. In this sphere Polish producers face a number of unique challenges: environmental, financial, technical or even legal (only since 2008 selling wine from your own vineyard is permissible under Polish law). Consequently, many Polish winemakers still have some work to do before they can match the quality of their more experienced colleagues abroad. Luckily for us, there are a handful of local vineyards which significantly stand out from the crowd already. Today we are going to visit one of them, a vineyard called Winnica Płochockich.
Winnica Płochockich is tucked away in the rolling hills of Świętokrzyskie voivodeship in southern Poland. It is a family business run by a couple, Barbara and Marcin Płochoccy. The operation which started in 2006 was only the third vineyard to be officially registered in the whole country. Interestingly, the owners did not have a background in winemaking and initially balanced their passion for wine with other professional responsibilities. The vineyard is located in Daromin village in the Sandomierz area – 3 hours by car from either Warsaw or Krakow. The winery welcomes visitors for casual shopping, tours that include tasting or even overnight stays in rooms, which are situated literally above tanks of fermenting wine! I also highly recommend walks among the vines; feast for the eyes guaranteed. I visited in early May so the vineyard was just coming to life after the winter. Neighbouring orchards which were in full bloom supplemented the additional palette of colours.
Bottle of red for dinner.Evening at the winery.
Let’s talk about wine. The estate is fairly small with just 7 hectares of land and yet growing 20 different grape varieties. As a result, a wide selection of both reds and whites is on offer. The vineyard grows international varieties such as Pinot Noir and Riesling, as well as more niche ones such as Hibernal Solaris or Johanniter. While white wines are certainly the highlight, any bottle with the Płochocki logo is sure to impress. The same cannot be said for every vineyard nearby. However, I am not going to go into more detail about that now because I don’t want to prematurely discourage eager local enotourists. Let’s just focus on the outstanding example today. During our stay, we were lucky to try a great selection of wines. Below, I go over the headlines and the most interesting examples.
From the reds we tried Ma Fo and Rodo. Ma Fo is made from Frontenac and Marechal Foch. Rodo is also a blend of Marechal Foch, Regent and Cabernet Cortis. This was my first experience with these varieties, but I very much enjoyed that first encounter. It was evident that the wines came from a cool climate. Satisfyingly, they turned out to be quite complex. Ma Fo was full-bodied with flavours of dark fruit, plums,blueberries and notes of vanilla. Rodo, on the other hand, was more crisp and subtle, tasting of cherry and redcurrants.
Luckily for us, Barbara also had the last few bottles of 2020 Pinot Noir. This single variety wine was produced in a limited series of just 600 bottles. The fact that it was already sold out might tell you something about its quality. I would say that this bottle was a typical example of Pinot Noir, which in this context, is a very good thing! Regrettably, often when this variety is grown in unusual geographies, a flat and characterless wine is the result. Not this time. This Pinot was smooth, with spicy notes of pepper and a palate full of red fruit such as cranberry and ripe cherry. Tannins were soft and pleasant. I am now imagining the kind of wine it will become after another two or three years of aging.
I must say, at this point I was quite happy already. It was very satisfying to find red wines of this quality produced by Polish winemakers. Nevertheless, the best that Winnica Płochockich has to offer are their whites. We tasted Hibia and Inspira Volcano. These two would easily stand their ground in comparison with many foreign bottles. Not only as an interesting novelty from Eastern Europe, but mostly thanks to their complex structure and intensity of flavours. These whites were blends similarly to Ma Fo and Rodo, made out of five and three varieties, respectively.
Hibia is made of Hibernal, Solaris, Traminer, Cserszegi Fűszeres and Muscaris. It displays pale yellow hues. It is very fruity both on the nose and the palate. The reverie of different aromas was rich, but not overwhelming. It was very fun to enjoy its changing nature: from tropical fruit flavours like melon and pineapple to fresh flowers, jasmine and roses. Underlying acidity balanced the wine nicely. It’s a summer drink, to drink with friends – just have fun and enjoy what’s good in life!
Hibia, Winnica Płochockich, ok. 90 zł (~ €21).
Inspira Volcano was a different story. It’s a rather serious wine made from Johanniter, Seyval Blanc and Hibernal. This white wine was very good shortly after release, however, as a big bonus, it also ages pretty well. The older it gets, the more developed its character and flavour get. Rumour has it that on her visit to Poland, Jancis Robinson (a world-famous wine guru) tried a 10 year old bottle of Inspira Volcano and was very pleased with it. Unlike Hibia, Inspira spends 12 months in oak barrels. Citrus notes dominate, but there is something balsamic to the flavour. The result is lavish, but intricate and elegant.
Winnica Płochockich differs from their neighbours in one more aspect. They focus on dry wines. The exception is a typical dessert wine, Raisins. Raisins, as the name suggests, is produced from the juice from dried grapes, analogous to some Italian and Spanish sweet wines. This achieves concentration of sugar and flavour. Unsurprisingly, it’s fairly sweet, but remains refreshing thanks to a decent level of acidity. The main flavour notes included exotic fruit, mango in particular. The raisins aroma was present too.
Is now a perfect time to stock up on some bottles of Inspira Volcano or Pinot Noir? Or Riesling, which is a new release from the winery and incidentally very well suited for this climate. I wonder about the future of Winnica Płochockich, the next 5, 10 or even 20 years…Considering the passion of the owners and the quality of their wines, I can’t help but think that they might do pretty well. It’s difficult to foresee that the popularity of a certain product is about to skyrocket. Is Winnica Płochockich just steps away from this moment? There is no way to say. But in the ‘’worst case scenario’’, I will be left with a few bottles of exceptionally good wine. I can probably live with that!
As I drove towards Alsace from the east, the view unfolding before me was exactly as the wine guidebooks described this French region. A sea of clouds nestled peacefully atop the Vosges mountains, creating a captivating horizon. Interestingly, Alsace is known as the driest part of France. Despite its northern location, the surrounding mountains bless Alsace with the most sunny days in the country, making it an ideal grape-growing region. Local vignerons (French for winemakers) certainly make the most of this advantage.
Crossing the German-French border around sundown, I was eager to delve into the complexities of this small yet intricate wine region. However, recalling my experience in Tuscany, I decided to start my exploration the next afternoon, as morning wine tastings are seldom a good idea. After a delightful lunch in our base town of Colmar, I discovered that Alsace was indeed everything the books and guides promised. Vineyards blanket every nook and cranny of the countryside, with large sections classified as Grand Cru – a designation for the highest quality of soil and environmental factors. The rolling hills, adorned with quaint mediaeval villages and towns, offered a picturesque, fairytale-like setting. The autumn palette of greens, yellows, and browns was simply breathtaking.
Alsatian landscape.
I had always regarded Tuscany as particularly notable for its abundance of vineyards and winemakers, but their sheer volume in the heart of Alsace was astounding. Along the Route des Vins d’Alsace (Alsace Wine Route), a winery appears nearly every hundred yards. This holds true for the towns as well. In Riquewihr, for instance, I discovered wineries in every other building, most offering casual, complimentary tastings. The maths was staggering: considering the average winery offers around 20 different bottles, the tasting possibilities seemed endless. I could easily spend a year here and only scratch the surface of this iceberg of wine.
But why so many different wines? This can be traced back to a specific winemaking philosophy ardently practised in Alsace. Here, a winemaker’s primary role is to subtly and naturally showcase the interplay between a grape variety and terroir.As a result, a single winery might produce several Rieslings, each from a different part of their estate. Local vignerons believe there are over 800 unique terroirs in Alsace, each significantly influencing the wine’s final character. Naturally, the most coveted plots are those within the Grand Cru vineyards.
Alsace is renowned for its white wines, which constitute 90% of its production. The main varieties include Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, with Pinot Noir leading the red wine production. Striving for naturalness and a true reflection of the terroir, Alsacian winemakers minimise their intervention within the winery. This includes using wild yeast for fermentation and predominantly ageing wine in stainless steel tanks to avoid flavour alteration from wood. The wines, especially when young, are characterised by their pronounced acidity, lending themselves well to ageing – a trait more typical of red wines. Alsacian whites are usually very dry, pairing beautifully with the region’s German-influenced cuisine. However, producers have recently been experimenting with sugar content, particularly in Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc-based wines.
In Colmar.3D map of Alsace.Fritsch & Fils wines.
During my afternoon adventure, I visited three wine producers: Fritsch & Fils, Hugel, and Horcher. I chose a mix of small, family-run vineyards and the more renowned Hugel. Each tasting session provided a rich array of wines, with the Riesling category alone offering 3-6 different selections.
At Fritsch & Fils, who are on the smaller end of the spectrum, I tried their Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer. The wines were a good representation of different grape varieties, though I initially found the high sugar content overpowering. These wines were approachable, but somewhat lacking in complexity. However, their affordability, with the most expensive bottle at just 10 €, was a plus.
At Hugel, a leading winery in both scale and recognition, I embarked on a deep Riesling exploration. Despite being a large-scale family business, Hugel has maintained its quality, exporting over a million bottles annually to more than a hundred countries. Their Riesling collection ranges from 17.20 € to 175 € per bottle.
Riesling Estate 2019 had a sweet aroma of honey and fresh flowers. It was a very dry wine. I could taste some further honey and pepper flavours. The wine was elegant, complex and with a long finish. Acidity was less pronounced than in a typical Riesling. The next one, Riesling Grand Cru 2014, reminded me more of a “classic” Riesling. Lemon, lime and green apple notes dominated. In this bottle, the crisp acidity played a major role creating a powerful and full-bodied wine. While the higher-priced wines were exquisite, I pondered whether their nuances justified the cost for the average wine enthusiast.
Horcher, a bit off the beaten path, offered an intriguing contrast with its two Pinot Noirs and two Crémant d’Alsace (local sparkling wines). The Tradition Pinot Noir was simpler and fruitier, while the Selection was richer and more nuanced. Their affordability made them great everyday reds. The Crémant d’Alsace and Rosé were spendid, buttery, and fruity, providing an excellent alternative to more expensive champagnes.
My days in Alsace were a magical immersion in a region that felt like a place plucked from a fairytale. The charming towns, delicious local fare, and, most importantly, the superb wines made it a memorable journey. Lost among the hills, I could only begin to fathom the hundreds of micro-terroirs that define this unique winemaking landscape…
